Skills.
Things to know, so you can sew.
1. Materials
Materials can make or break a design. For best results, follow the guide below.
1 - Select the fabric type. Each design will have a fabric type recommendation which will be:
Knit
Woven
Knit or Woven
For best results, always follow these recommendations. Learn more about each type below:
Knit fabrics are made to be stretchy. Your t-shirts, leggings, and underwear are made from knits.
Examples of Knit Fabrics: Jersey, ponte, ribbing, sweat shirting fleece, interlock knit, spandex, double knit, polar fleece.
Woven fabrics are usually not stretchy. Your button-up shirts, denim and trousers are made from wovens.
Examples of Woven Fabrics: Broadcloth, denim, drill, poplin, cotton sateen, flannelette, lawn, corduroy.
2 - Decide which fabric properties will suit the design best. Learn more about common fabric properties below.
Weight: The weight of the fabric affects the drape, which is the way a fabric hangs under its weight. The drape is also determined by stiffness, thickness, as well as yarn and thread count. The way fabric feels is another property of the fabric, which is determined by smoothness, compressibility, and elasticity.
Opacity: The weight and color of fabric largely dictate the level of opacity. Generally, the thicker the fabric, the more opaque it is, and the lighter the color the less opaque it is. Placing fabric up to a light source often helps to determine its opacity.
Although an all-purpose polyester thread will work well on most material, if you’re working with a slightly different fabric, such as stretch or heavyweight, then the general rule is to use the same type of thread as the fabric. So, for example, if you’re sewing with 100% cotton material, use 100% cotton thread and match the thread weight to your fabric.
Cotton threads: Cotton thread has very little stretch and is great for delicate projects, particularly for cotton fabrics or sheers, but not for stretchy fabrics. Most cotton thread is mercerised, which means it has gone through a series of chemical processes that increase the lustre of the thread and make it more water and dye-absorbent. This means it’s less likely to run.
Polyester/Nylon threads: These are strong and have some stretch. They often have a wax or silicone finish that allows the thread to slip through the fabric with little friction. This thread is also suitable for stretch fabrics such as synthetics and knits. Cotton-wrapped polyester thread can be used with most fabrics, too.
Specialists threads: Threads made from a variety of materials, such as silk, again should be matched to the thread content of your fabric.
2. Printing
Thimball patterns come with 3 different files:
Small Printer - Slow
For printers that use A4 or letter size paper
Requires piecing together the most number of pages
Medium Printer - Fast
for printers that use A0 size paper
Requires piecing together 16 times fewer pages than small
Large Printer - Fastest
for printers that use a roll of 36 inch wide paper
Does not require any piecing together of pages
Open the PDF file in Adobe Acrobat Reader DC Free Download
Make sure the print settings are “actual size” and print page 1 only
Measure a square to ensure the print settings are correct
Print the remaining pages
Cut out the rectangles on each page
Arrange and tape the rectangles together by matching the sides Learn more
Find a local print shop with a A0 printer
Provide the printer with the Print_Medium PDF file
Ensure the file is printed “actual size”
Cut out the rectangles on each page
If required, arrange and tape the rectangles together by matching the sides Learn more
Find a local print shop with a 36 inch wide x customizable length printer
Use the PDF file provided to get the entire sewing pattern printed in a single sheet
Cut out the paper pieces for the size you wish to make.
Position and cut the fabric pieces following the pattern symbols
3. Sizes
Let’s avoid making a beautiful design that doesn’t fit… measure twice, cut once!
To take accurate measurements, you’ll need a flexible measuring tape. With tape in hand, loop it around the associated body section. Ensure the tape is comfortable (not too tight or loose) and note the measurement.
We use three different measurement points to determine size.
Chest - the widest point of the chest or bust, regardless of where that is. Easiest to do with the arms out to the sides.
Waist - the narrowest point on the torso, usually near or above the belly button.
Hip - the widest point of the hip area, including the butt.
Once you have your body measurements written down, compare your measurements with the sizes shown below and choose the size that closest matches your measurements.
If your measurements are in-between sizes, we recommend that you choose the larger size, as it is much easier to make a garment smaller, either by washing and drying or alterations.
Note: We use ASTM sizes, which are standardized model sizes developed by the American Society for Testing and Materials for product development purposes.
Note: We use ASTM sizes, which are standardized model sizes developed by the American Society for Testing and Materials for product development purposes.
Note: We use ASTM sizes, which are standardized model sizes developed by the American Society for Testing and Materials for product development purposes.
4. Prep
Before we start sewing, we need to cut the pattern pieces out of our fabric. Let’s see how this is done.
Cut out the paper pieces for the size you wish to make.
Position and cut the fabric pieces following the pattern symbols
4. Stitches
To select the best stitches for our design we’ll need to consider our fabric type.
A basting stitch also called a gathering stitch, is a loose long straight stitch with unfinished ends. This stitch is temporary and can be removed after replacing it with a permanent stitch.
It is often used to gather fabric, temporarily hold pieces of fabric in place and, fit sleeves into an armhole.
To create a basting stitch, set the machine to its longest stitch setting. You'll need to ensure the foot, needle, and stitch settings are correct on your machine. Follow your machine’s instructions on how to do this.
A double needle, also called a twin needle, is used to produce two rows of parallel stitches on top with zig-zag looking interlocked stitches underneath.
In woven fabrics, it is purely decorative but in stretch fabrics, it helps to ensure the stitch will not break when stretched.
To sew this seam, you'll need to ensure the foot, needle, and stitch settings are correct on your machine. Follow your machine’s instructions on how to do this.
Double needle stitch example, right side of fabric.
Double needle stitch example, wrong side of fabric.
An overcast stitch, also called an overstitch mimics an overlock stitch produced by a serging machine.
An overcast stitch sews over the edge of one or two pieces of fabric by wrapping itself around and over the edge of the fabric. The overcast stitch is suitable for finishing edges, hems and seams and is a great substitute for a serger.
You'll need to ensure the foot, needle, and stitch settings are correct on your machine. Follow your machine’s instructions on how to do this.
When in doubt, use fabric scraps to practice so you can see the finished stitch before sewing directly on the garment. For very stretchy fabrics like activewear, do the pull test. Pull the seam out as much as you can to make sure it doesn’t break.
For a more professional-looking seam, trim your seam allowances to ¼-inch, then over-edge them.
A straight or lockstitch stitch is the most used and versatile stitch. It’s made by sewing one straight line into another and can vary in length and direction.
Straight stitches are used to sew basic seams, hems and gathers. They are often invisible as they are used to close seams. This type of stitch is mostly recommended for non-stretch/woven fabrics.
You'll need to ensure the foot, needle, and stitch settings are correct on your machine. Follow your machine’s instructions on how to do this.
A stretch stitch is a narrow zigzag stitch that allows a seam to stretch. This stitch allows for stretching without the thread popping or breaking, which is what would happen if you stretch a regular straight stitch.
A stretch stitch is what you will commonly use if you plan to sew stretch fabrics, bias-cut seams, and elastics.
Your machine may have a triple stretch setting (shown on your machine as three drawn horizontal lines), which allows the thread and fabric to stretch further. You'll need to ensure the foot, needle, and stitch settings are correct on your machine. Follow your machine’s instructions on how to do this.
Varying the width and length can provide a lot of flexibility with this stitch. When in doubt, use fabric scraps to practice so you can see the finished stitch before sewing directly on the garment.
Under-stitching is a straight stitch that gets added after the facing has been sewn to the main bodice.
This stitch keeps the facing on the inside of your garment without any stitches showing on the outside.
To sew this seam, iron the facing and allowances away from the neckline, then understitch along the edge of the facing seam.
5. Seams
Seams are the line along which two pieces of fabric are sewn together. Let’s explore some common seams and methods.
French Seams are very flattering visually, both on the inside and outside of the garment. French seams are often used with thin woven fabrics.
Here is how to do a french seam.
1 - Put your two pieces of fabric with the wrong sides together and stitch along the seam allowance line. Use a straight stitch.
2 - Trim the allowances and tuck them between the right sides
3 - Sew again so that the raw edges are tucked away and smooth
6. Hems
A hem is the edge of a piece of clothing that has been folded and sewn. Let’s learn how to sew the most common hems.
A single fold hem is made by simply folding the fabric back on itself once and stitching it in place.
It is mostly used to finish the edges of medium to heavy weight fabrics.
To sew this hem, apply an over-edge stitch over the raw edge of the hem. Then, fold following the distance indicated in the guide. For example, 3/8 inch single fold hem. Finally, iron along the crease and stitch in place.
Use a straight stitch for woven fabrics or a double-needle stitch for knit fabrics.
A double fold hem is made by folding the fabric back on itself twice and stitching it in place.
It is mostly used to finish the edges of light to medium-weight fabrics.
To sew this hem, fold once following the distance indicated in the guide. For example, 3/8 inch double-fold hem. Then, iron along the crease and fold again. Finally, iron one more time and stitch in place.
Use a straight stitch for woven fabrics or a double-needle stitch for knit fabrics.
7. Bindings
Bindings are thin strips of fabric used to finish raw edges for a clean, polished look. In this section, you’ll learn common techniques used to prepare and attach bindings.
A raw binding isn’t finished on the ends. This is often used when the ends will be covered up by another binding. The video below will go through the steps to prepare and attach a binding - raw.
Pro tip: if the binding is going to be sewn to a curve, iron the binding into a curve as your fold.
A loop binding is when the ends overlap. This is often used on necklines and armholes. The video below will go through the steps to prepare and attach a binding - loop.
Pro tip: if the binding is going to be sewn to a curve, iron the binding into a curve as your fold.
A finished binding has ends that are folded inwards. This is used when the ends won’t be covered up. The video below will go through the steps to prepare and attach a binding - finished.
Pro tip: if the binding is going to be sewn to a curve, iron the binding into a curve as your fold.
A tie binding has ends extend past the edge of the fabric. The ends are then tied into a knot to form straps. The video below will go through the steps to prepare and attach a binding - tie.
Pro tip: if the binding is going to be sewn to a curve, iron the binding into a curve as your fold.
8. Other
In this section, you’ll learn various other sewing techniques.
1. Position right sides together and stitch 1 inch from the edge.
2. Sew allowances together 3/8 inch from the edge, leaving an opening.
3. Insert elastic through opening. Find the best fit by cutting the elastic the measurement of your waist plus 1 inch.
4. Overlap elastic ends and stretch stitch three times.
5. Close the opening.
6. Clean the edges with an over-edge stitch.
1. Baste stitch 1/4 inch from the edge. Leave long tails of thread.
2. Pull one of the tails of thread to gather.
3. Position and straight stitch 3/8 inch from the edge.
Note: for knits use a stretch stitch.
9. Glossary
Knit fabrics are made to be stretchy. They are made up of little loops rather than crisscrossing threads. Some knit fabrics include: jersey, interlock, and rib knit.
Woven fabrics are usually not stretchy. They are made up of crisscrossing threads. Some woven fabrics include: quilting cotton, satin, twill, gauze, canvas, and denim.
Notches are used as a reference point on a pattern piece. They are usually used to help you match up pattern pieces. If your Oh Me Oh My pattern has them, the instructions will explain what your specific notches do as you need them. See page 9 for more info.
The right side of the fabric or garment is the side that you want to be facing out on your finished garment. If you are using a print fabric, the side with the pattern on it will be your right side.
Seam allowance is the extra fabric beyond a sewn line. If an instruction says to sew a seam with ½” seam allowance it means you should sew your line a ½” from the edge of the fabric.
To tac is when you sew back and forth a couple times just a couple stitches to keep something in place.
Top stitching is a sewn line that will be seen on the right side of the finished garment. It’s often used to create clean finished edges and to keep things in place.
Understitching is when you sew the seam allowance to one side of a seam. This makes it so the seam folds cleanly. When you fold it there will be a line of stitching on the inside and no stitching on the outside.
The grainline shows you the angle the piece should be cut at.
Facing is a method of finishing edges. A facing piece will be made to match the shape of the edge being finished. After sewn, it folds into the inside of the garment.
Gathering is used to make a piece less wide and to create fullness. To gather a piece first set your machine to it’s longest stitch setting. Sew along the edge you would like to gather, leaving long tails of thread. Then pull one of the tails of thread until you’ve gathered your desired amount.
Lining is a technique that finishes the inside of a garment with an additional layer of fabric. Fabrics used for lining are usually lightweight.
The selvage is at the sides of your fabric. It usually has little holes in it. The selvage may be a different color or texture. It’s there to keep the fabric from fraying. See page 8 for more info.